
on the TexaCali Wine Co. website.
Happy Holidays! - Ali
"Never let the odds keep you from pursuing what you know in your heart you were meant to do".

I'm in San Francisco now finalizing 2009 plans for TexaCali producers...how fitting is this little story I'm about to tell?
I’m out visiting Texas wine shops, wine bars, restaurants and wine distributors each and every day. Everyone asks “are you seeing a slow-down?”… Well no, actually sales are good and absolutely growing stronger each month.
ul planning…the wine and Sake of TexaCali Wine Co. are selling like crazy!
than the Lone Star State – so let’s help out these families and make up for the down-sales in other regions of the US. Texas sales are strong – let’s keep it up.
Last year it was Robert Pellegrini of Pellegrini Family Vineyards, this year please meet Kevin Kelley from LIOCO...published in the San Francisco Chronicle today and pictures I took while visiting with Kevin last December.Most wine loves start with a memorable glass. Kevin Kelley's started with a memorable book. As a history-obsessed high schooler in south San Jose, he dove into Charles Sullivan's "Like Modern Edens," about the Santa Clara Valley's wine roots.
"Little did I know he was an English teacher," points out Kelley, now 32. "He was Mr. Sullivan, teaching English at my high school."
The Pinot Noir long grown on nearby slopes at Saratoga's Mount Eden Vineyards intrigued the science-minded Kelley enough to abandon his medical ambitions and head for UC Davis, though not before marrying his high school sweetheart Jennifer Hatley, who attended UC Berkeley.
If Davis loaded him with practical winemaking skill - he researched topics like the presence of multiple fermentation yeasts in wineries - he increasingly found Burgundy on his brain. When a visiting professor from Dijon arrived, Kelley pounced. "The first day I met him, it was like, 'Hi, I'm Kevin Kelley. I want to go work in Burgundy.' " He began a student internship at Domaine Meo-Camuzet in Vosne-Romanee just after graduation in 2000.
Back on these shores, he became assistant winemaker to Wells Guthrie of Copain, and eventually ran Copain's custom crush facility, working for more than a dozen clients while starting his own label, Salinia Wine Co., in 2003.
Through one of his growers, Charles Heintz, he met the founders of a new project called Lioco. Kelley's goal with Salinia was "to try and find colder and colder sites, and make leaner and leaner wines" with little oak influence. Lioco's founders, Matt Licklider and Kevin O'Connor, wanted to express the flavors of specific Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards with the least intrusive winemaking possible.
"When we sat down and started talking," Kelley recounts, "it was like, 'You really want to do this? Great.' "
Kelley now views his time at Davis as "learning the rules so I know what and when to break." So not only does he insist on no added yeast but he doesn't raise the tank temperatures to spur fermentation. His 2005 Salinia Heintz Ranch Chardonnay took 10 months to ferment, with another eight for malolactic fermentation. The 2006 was just bottled, two years later.
The resulting wines won't appeal to partisans of the extracted California style. But they have a rapidly surging popularity among younger customers who prefer the higher-acid, red-fruit flavors that come from picking as early as Kelley prefers to - often two weeks before fellow winemakers. The Lioco wines, too, have gained attention for their clean, pure expressions. (Kelley also makes more traditional Pinot Noir for Heintz himself, plus several wines for Spot-On Cellars.)
The Kelleys reside in Windsor with their 2-year-old son, Kian, with their winery across from a Baptist church in a generic Santa Rosa industrial park, complete with a long communal table made from the pallet that contained his winery's glycol cooling unit.
Though Salinia produces a mere 350 cases, the tiny footprint allows Kelley to kee
p breaking more of those rules. So when a slightly murky white he pours draws a puzzled look, he's quick to explain. It's skin-fermented 2008 Chardonnay. He plans to sell it for quick drinking in reusable bulk containers that require only carbon dioxide, not sulfur dioxide, to preserve the wine.
"We're right here in Wine Country, and you can't get fresh wine," he continues. "The freshness is something I want to capture."
2006 Lioco Michaud Vineyard Chalone Pinot Noir ($45) This Central Coast vineyard shows itself distinctly in this finely toned, almost coppery wine, with dusky cherry, a fascinating hibiscus-like note and moist loam.
2006 Salinia Heintz Ranch Chardonnay ($45) Powerful and mineral-focused, with real punch, a fine example of Kelley's style. Lots of tart Meyer lemon, mango and peach, with honeycomb and salted almond highlights, surround that expressive mineral core.
What he does: Demonstrates the ability of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to reveal their terroir using cold-climate fruit and almost no new oak.
Weeknight wine: Cru Beaujolais like the Domaine Chignard Les Moriers Fleurie
Quote: "Bringing in fruit at the levels I do is not typical. It doesn't appeal to a mass audience like the riper fruit-forward Pinot Noirs do."
Congrats to all the TexaCali Wine Co. producers who made the San Francisco Chronicle 2008 Top 100 Wine List this year! Ask your favorite wine shop to point you to these on their shelves - all are available in Texas... Second label wines often have somewhat poetic names—Bordeaux’s Fleur de Fonplégade comes to mind, as does Crios by Susana Balbo.
Argentine winemaker Susana Balbo chose the word crios (which means offspring) to express the idea that these wines are not quite as “grown up” as her first label wines. While Crios wines may not exhibit the same level of maturity as Balbo’s more renown (and expensive) Signature wines, Balbo assures wine-lovers that Crios wines have received the same loving care and attention throughout the winemaking process.
Bottles to look for include:
First Thursday's Winemaker Dinner Series at Starlite - Featuring Davis Family Vineyards
All new releases.Between $20 & $30 – these bottles offer a little more complexity and are smaller production wines.
Over $30 wines for Collectors and "I'm Drinkin’ the Good Stuff Now" folks!
and save some room after stuffing yourself with Turkey. This night of food and wine will be a dazzler!
I spent an entire week with Etienne de Montille in Here’s a little background I dug up that sums up our conversations with Etienne last week…
s one of the most important family domaines. Based in Volnay, Etienne, has recently overseen some ambitious developments at the domaine.
Having bought some vineyards in Corton Charlemagne in 2005, he then joined forces with the Seysses family at Domaine Dujac and acquired several hectares of vines both in the Cote de Beaune and, more interestingly for Etienne, in the Cote de Nuits, including a wonderful plot of Vosne Romanee Malconsorts.
Virtually doubling the size of the domaine overnight has ensured that the already busy Etienne (he is regisseur at the resurgent Chateau de Puligny Montrachet) has even less time on his hands now. However, his sister, Alex, works ever closer alongside him (they also have a negotiant label together called Deux Montille) and together they are really upping the ante at the domaine.
Prior to 1997 the wines
of de Montille were known for their austerity, an austerity that in great years and given enough time, would blossom into beautifully graceful Burgundies of great class and poise. Etienne was keen to maintain their purity and typicity but he was also anxious to get the wines to express a little more fruit in their youth. This he appears to have
NOW SHIPPING
93 pts, 2006 Mendel Unus
91 pts, 2006 Mendel Malbec
91 pts, 2006 Luca Laborde Double Select Syrah
90 pts, 2007 Susana Balbo Malbec
90 pts, 2006 mapema Malbec
90 pts, 2007 La Posta Malbec, Paulucci Vineyard
89 pts, 2007 La Posta Cocina Blend
UPCOMING RELEASES
91 pts, 2007 BenMarco Malbec -Est. Release: Spring 2009
90 pts, 2006 Susana Balbo Brioso - Est. Release: Spring 2009
91 pts, 2007 La Posta Malbec, Pizzella Vineyard - Est. Release: Jan 2009
89 pts, 2007 La Posta Bonarda, Armando Vineyard - Est. Release: Jan 2009
(Some of the scores were available online prior to the November 15 issue date.)
Click on any wine above for additional review and product information or visit www.vineconnections.com. If you are in the Texas wine trade - shelftalkers for the wines are also available and in a new easier-to-cut format.
Posting from the Harlingen airport this morning, after a big night in South Padre "Wine by the Sea" event. Great crowd in attendance to support Planned Parenthood. Many thanks to Ben's Liquors who orchestrated a very successful event. Folks were incredibly curious, enthusiastic and fun to talk with at the event. 

"Oh no, I don't drink white wine", said to me by a women that could easily win the "biggest hair in Texas award" a few days ago. Jeesh. Just when I think barriers have been broken, corners have been turned, minds have expanded and everyone at a wine event "gets it". I am proved wrong. This woman said this to me with a disgusting expression while shaking her head...like I just accused her of buying her jewelry at Kmart. I began telling her that she's missing out, but then just shoved a full bodied, American oaked, Napa Valley Cabernet in her hand and let her be.
The hook: A gentle, Spanish red for that last warm-weather barbecue.
The details: We're always drawn to this well-balanced Garnacha (or Grenache), for its soft, smooth mouthfeel, good balance between acid and fruit, and low tannins. With rich strawberry on the nose and just a hint of spiciness, it's complex without being overbearing. We'd never guess that it has 14.5 percent alcohol content - it goes down easy with very little heat. Grilled meats, sausages or even chicken would pair well with it. This particular vintage doesn't need anything big and bold food-wise, but would stand up well to dishes with a little bit of spice.
Found at: Whole Foods (San Francisco) Oh and the Wine Advocate gave it 91pts!

After doing a search in my inbox last night, I found an email from Mike back in October 2005 “Ali, always a pleasure to see you in the
I always looked forward to seeing Mike, listening to his thoughts, opinions and of course always getting out of him what “new discovery” he might have encountered since the last time we spoke. I will miss Mike, it was a true honor to know him - he was a "wine-angel" to many in this business and most certainly earned his wings. A rarity indeed. - Ali